As we turn towards our more autumnal crops, we are looking at vegetables that have somewhat fallen from favour over the last couple of decades. This week our menu focuses on Celery which will appear in various guises. Although seemingly not arriving in English Kitchens till the late 17th Century, by 1699 John Evelyn describes its ascendancy over other vegetables in his Discourse of Sallets: “Sellery … formerly a stranger with us… is a hot and more generous sort of Macedonian Persley or Smallage… and for its high and grateful Taste is ever plac’d in the middle of the Grand Sallet, at our Great Men’s tables, and Praetors feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board”.
From this culinary highpoint, however, celery has receded into the background and is perhaps most commonly used in the kitchen as an ingredient in the mirepoix (with onion and carrot) the base of almost all southern European braises and sauces.
For this week though, we are putting Celery back on centre stage: Arnold and his farming team have grown some truly beautiful celery plants this year – tall, strong and vivid green – the flavour is savoury and sharp whether served as one of the crudities on the Worton Mezze, as the vibrant, green, mineral-rich Cream of Celery Soup, braised in stock to accompany the Roast Goose or, in a nod to my first encounter in the 70’s, on the Cheese Board to scoop up our creamy Stichelton.
Following many requests, we are continuing for one more week with our Michaelmas “Green” Goose this weekend. Once again, it will be available as individual servings on the day but why not order in advance and have a perfectly cooked traditional Goose with Apple Sauce, Roast Potatoes, Braised Celery and Potato and Sage Stuffing served as a whole bird for you to carve yourself at the table? Our Embden Geese make a fantastic Roast Lunch and are a treat not to miss! These will be the last Geese available till we launch our Christmas menu – so if you’ve never eaten Goose, why not come along on Sunday to try it?
The whole team look forward to welcoming you for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
